Xel-ha

There are only two places I’ve visited which can boast having crystal clear water. The Bruce Peninsula in Ontario, where the water is so cold it shattered a waterproof watch, and the Xel-Ha park in Mexico. Pronounced Shell-Hah, it is significantly warmer than the Bruce and provides a far more pleasant swim. Full disclosure; I couldn’t find any pictures of Xel-Ha, but I tried to get pictures of parts of Mexico that resemble it. When I can find the ones we took I’ll be sure to scan them and add them in!

Xel-Ha is not a typical water park in the way that Canadians or Americans would think of them, but it certainly is a park with a lot of water! The idea is that you swim the riviera, following the spaces in the mangrove until you come to the mouth of the sea. It’s a beautiful, relaxing, and enchanting swim, where you can watch tropical fish darting in and out of the submerged roots.

I remember taking a bus to Xel-Ha from our resort, though after Dad read this article he told me we’d actually taken a cab. Another little reminder that memories can be faulty! Upon arrival I was fitted for a life-jacket, flippers, and a snorkel, and Mom was warned about the dangers that the mouth of the riviera posed to someone small like me. It was pretty windy that day, and everything from the waves to the tide could have swept me away in the blink an eye. I remember her assuring the staff that I was a very strong swimmer for my age, but looking back it was good of them to be concerned, and showed real professionalism on their part!

To get to the starting point of the riviera there is a little bit of a hike, which, in a bathing suite while carrying my swimming gear, is certainly one of the stranger things I’ve done. Take your time swimming back, and just follow the river. Remember not to tip your head back too far if you decide to look forward rather than down at the bottom. Your snorkel will fill with water, as mine did on several occasions. Keep a sharp eye out when you get closer to the ocean and you may see a sting ray or two gliding along the bottom! Keep in mind though, that the closer you get to the ocean the lower your visibility can become. When it gets to the point that you can’t see the bottom or even a good several feet in front of you, it’s time to either turn back or head to shore. It’s all nice and well to see a stingray at the bottom of a crystal clear river when you’re floating on the top, but you won’t want to tangle with anything that likes to linger in the murk.

There’s a bridge that crosses the mouth of the river which is designed to help you move around the park with greater ease. It’s made of what looked to be planks of some kind which floated on the surface of the water. My family and I saw people walk across it, but we did not brave it ourselves. There were no ropes or handrails to help you cross, and the bridge was rocking rather harshly with the waves. We weren’t contemplating crossing it with any seriousness, but then Mom spotted two enormous shadows in the water. They were at least four feet long and moved with hair-raising swiftness, circling beneath the bridge. My theory? Barracuda. I don’t know of course, but their shadows alone were enough to send us back the way we’d come.

There are of course many other adventures you can have at Xel-Ha, including swimming with dolphins and manatees, scuba-diving, and visiting cenotes. It’s a great day out for adults and children alike, and I know my nine year old self really loved it. Don’t forget your waterproof camera, your towel, sunscreen (oil free please, asks Xel-Ha, to keep their wildlife nice and healthy), and your sense of adventure!

Are there any enchanting swimming areas that you’ve found in your travels? Let me know in the comments!