Newgrange

I love Neolithic stuff. It’s an adoration I picked up from running around Britain and Ireland, finding all sorts of passage tombs and cairns. There’s just something so mysterious and powerfully human about these ancient sites, and Newgrange happens to be one of very few large sites which you can experience almost fully. That’s right, you can go inside this passage tomb!

There are a few tours which can take you to Newgrange along with the Hill of Tara, though personally I prefer Mary Gibbons Newgrange Tours. I’ve been several times with multiple family members and their guides have always been excellent. You’ll need to book in advance through their website by email, and the tour costs €45. For the tour and knowledge you get, it’s well worth it in my opinion; probably the best in Ireland!

When you get to Newgrange you’ll be brought to a nearby farm which does have washroom facilities and a small café before you take a short bus ride up to the actual cairn. Beware of one of the goats, he likes to escape his pen and get on the tour buses, so store any items you’re keeping on the bus in the upper racks!

You’ll be in for a little wait when you get to the cairn, only a few people are in at a time as the passage will only accommodate so many. Don’t take any backpacks with you. If you have one you’ll be asked to leave it outside while you go inside the passage tomb. You’ll need to duck as you travel through the entrance, and do your best to keep your shoulders from rubbing on the stone. All of this is done to preserve the carvings and the ruin itself for future generations to enjoy.

The passage itself is a bit claustrophobic, but once you’re inside the cairn’s middle chamber you’ll be able to stand upright, with a surprising amount of room. You’ll see three ante-chambers along the edges, go ahead and look around, but do try not to touch the stone, again for preservation reasons.

At one point your guide will turn off the electric lights to allow for the natural light to shine in. There will not be much, so if you’re afraid of the dark make sure someone you trust is nearby.

You’ll be given a moment or two to explore after his presentation is done before you leave. Just be sure to make it brief, as the next group will be waiting to enter.

You cannot take flash pictures inside New Grange (if I remember correctly you are allowed to record video and take flashless pictures), so be sure to turn that feature off before you go in. You’ll likely be too busy marveling at the structure you’re in to remember anything else. I know I did.

The chambers were built around 3200 BCE, which makes them roughly 5000 years old. They predate Stongehenge by about 200 years, and the oldest pyramid in Egypt (the Pyramid of Djoser) by about 500. In all that time, the roof has neither leaked nor collapsed.

There’s plenty to marvel at in this structure, but what I find the most fascinating is that this was discovered in 1699, and since then it has been a tourist attraction. Despite the purpose and use having been lost to us, people still connect to it and understand that this was a place of importance. We flock to it.

If you too feel a call to this ancient site, make sure you’re prepared with water bottle and a pair of good walking shoes. Some of us are perfectly fine with enclosed spaces, the dark, and knowing that this place was once a burial ground, but for others it might take a bit of bravery too. Not to worry, the skeletons have been removed; though it is still dark and closed in. Bring a loved one if you feel a bit afraid. It’s worth a touch of fear to experience something so ancient!

Wash your hands, wear a mask, and stay safe gentle readers.